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11/25/2004 - Foodies Enjoy a Sinfully Delicious City
Foodies Enjoy a Sinfully Delicious City
By Bob Ecker, Special to the Herald
Thursday, November 25, 2004
LAS VEGAS - Alongside the mega productions, outrageous shows and big name musical acts, the number of "haute cuisine" establishments here has grown tremendously the last few years.
The Vegas fine dining scene started in earnest when Wolfgang Puck opened Spago at the Caesars Palace Forum Shops in 1992, and began a culinary revolution.
"We literally went from all buffets to becoming one of the fine dining Meccas in the world," said Spago spokeswoman Madeline Benito.
Diners today will recognize many of the celebrity chefs from sister establishments in other cities. Like Puck, Todd English and Emeril Lagasse are both well established here, English with Olives at the Bellagio and Lagasse with Emeril'sNew Orleans Fish House at the MGM Grand and Delmonico Steakhouse at the Venetian. Bobby Flay just opened his first venue outside New York, Mesa Grill at Caesars Palace.
Here are some other highlights of the current Vegas culinary scene.
Alizé
The first thing that strikes you when you walk into Alizé is the incredible view. Located on the 56th floor of the Palms hotel, the restaurant's180-degree view overlooking the bright lights of the Las Vegas Strip is breathtaking. It'sno wonder that, in the three years since opening, Alizé has been one of the swankiest, most desirable spots in town.
It'sa place to bring your finest "significant other" to dine on superb French cuisine. Chef André Rochat, who operates two other restaurants in Las Vegas, presents guests with refined, supple flavors, such as his splendid foie gras in maple syrup reduction. The cuisine easily finds a match among the restaurant-s 1,600-bottle wine list. Alizé is simply gorgeous.
Bradley Ogden
One of the latest entries to the fine dining Vegas tableau is Bradley Ogden, which shares the name of the chef at the heart of the highly regarded Lark Creek restaurant group in the San Francisco Bay Area. Ogden, unlike many of the celebrity chefs elsewhere, is actually cooking in the kitchen nightly. This restaurant is the epitome of the company'smantra, bringing diners farm-fresh-to-table American food, combined with handsome decor and placed in perhaps the best location in Sin City, 100 feet away from the Celine Dion Colosseum Theater inside Caesars Palace.
Entrees such as the Wood Fired Eden Farms Pork Chop with Red Wine Cabbage and Potato Croquettes and the Cedar Springs Rack of Lamb with Sage Gnocchi and Heirloom Squash already are becoming legend. Ogden brings his American touch to the wine list, which is heavily weighted toward California, and also offers diners a healthy selection of fine American artisinal cheeses made by boutique West Coast producers.
"My menu changes every day to reflect the finest American food there is to offer," said Ogden. His Kobe Beef Hamburger is the best in town.
Picasso
This Mediterranean-inspired venue presents the cuisine of renowned chef Julian Serrano. Located inside the Bellagio, the room is clearly for adults, with dark woods and tony carpeting accenting actual Pablo Picasso paintings on the walls. It looks like a dining room at the Louvre, or perhaps at Donald Trump'shouse.
An evening dining here is a coveted experience. Sample the Sauteed Filet of Black Bass with Saffron Sauce and Cauliflower Mousseline, or perhaps the Medallions of Fallow Deer with Caramelized Green Apples and Zinfandel Sauce for an unusual, remarkable treat.
Lutece
Diners can have an otherworldly, front-row table at this restaurant which not only overlooks the gondola-strewn Grand Canal at the Venetian, but also a volcano. Despite the Vegas glitz outside, the elegant black and copper design exudes power and refinement; this is a restaurant that doesn-t need to put on airs. The French cuisine created by New York chef David Feau is accompanied by appropriately delicate service. The Chef'sFive-Course Tasting Menu is a must. Sample the Sauteed Foie Gras with chocolate sauce and orange marmalade, a truly amazing dish with enough calories to power a small city.
"They don-t have foie gras like this in Orlando!" exclaimed Krista Sillage, visiting from Florida. Lutece provides Vegas guests with a cosmopolitan, sumptuous dining experience.
Commander's Palace
For a different slice of the American pie, try this New Orleans staple gone Vegas upscale. Located in the Desert Passage adjacent to the Aladdin, Commander'sPalace is a large, old-fashioned restaurant featuring friendly, excellent service and arresting Creole cuisine.
Chef Carlos Guia produces outstanding fresh, spiced seafood combos with enough enchanting zest to make a Southern Belle blush. The Alligator Gumbo and Jumbo Lump Blue Crab Cake, flown in nightly from the gulf, burst with flavor. The Tasso Shrimp Henican is another favorite and the original Bananas Foster, invented at the original Commander'sPalace, is a dessert to remember.
Charlie Palmer Steak
Another standout Las Vegas restaurant is within the understated Four Seasons Hotel, quietly nestled inside the Mandalay Bay. Executive Chef Steven Blandino creates artistic dishes, including a red and yellow pepper mousse, Ahi Tuna Sashimi Tower and handsome Kobe beef carpaccio salad. Of course, steaks reign in this scion of the famed New York Steak House, and the quality is unsurpassed, including a marvelous 38-ounce rib-eye for two. Charlie Palmer Steak exudes a confident, sublime air, unlike some of the rowdier Vegas hotspots.
Medici Cafe and Terrace
Right outside of Vegas, fine dining has taken root at The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas. Executive chef Stephan Marshall offers diners pan-Mediterranean cuisine with less Vegas sizzle but more steak, as it were. The Dijon mustard and sand-colored decor help make this Lake Como-esque environment a soothing space to enjoy the Atlantic Salmon Corn Fricassee, Mild Mushroom Tomatoes and Natural Crema.
Grilled Lamb Chops Chickpea Gallete and a discriminating Black Angus New York Steak are other worthy choices. The atmosphere provides elegance without pretension. An incredible array of house-made sorbets, chocolates and other delicious desserts are created daily by award-winning Pastry Chef Patrice Caillot.
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